Here we are - A gallery of the iPhone 3G in White and some comparisons to the original iPhone 2G. Short version: The iPhone 3G is a bit thicker, a smidge taller, and (most surprisingly) noticeably wider, it feels just as good in the hand because of the curved back. That wider part also means there's a slight border on the left and right of the screen - but all in all the iPhone 3G is essentially the same slab as the original iPhone. The plastic backing feels very solid - it's very hard plastic and though it's not likely to be as scratch-resistant as the original metal, it's a damn sight tougher than most smartphone plastic we've seen. It is a fingerprint magnet back to front, even in white (though the white hides it better).
The headphone jack is flush (yay) and looks to be well-constructed. Unlike many a smarthphone we've used before, there's no jiggle whatsoever when you plug a headset in.
GMYLE Plastic Hard Case for Old MacBook Pro 13 Inch with Retina Display No CD-ROM (A1502/A1425, Version 2015/2014/2013/end 2012), Garden Flower price information. Product price may change at any time. If price can not be displayed here, please use our price checker button to get most updated price for this product. MacBook Pro 13 Case 2017 & 2016 - L2W 2 in 1 (Model: A1706 and A1708) Nebula Pattern Plastic Hard Shell Case Cover for New MacBook Pro 13 inch. This case is made from plastic and coated with a crystal clear enamel layer, the images are reflected cleanly on the case. This hardshell case is made of rugged, durable material to withstand everyday use, protecting your device from scratches and damage.
Ok, we'll say it, the headset jack on Treos would often get busted because the soldier points would fail - that doesn't look to be a concern here. Also great: Speaker quality and call quality are FAR SUPERIOR to the original iPhone. We're going to have much much more throughout the day, including a full hardware review, a full review of the iPhone 2.0 OS, some app reviews, and a new chance for you to win stuff from TiPb. Keep on coming back all day, but for now check out our gallery and unboxing video after the break.
Because the stock G5 PSU is much longer and shorter than an ATX one, mounting the power supply was one of the most difficult parts of this project. Also, the front fans and the CPU cover both mount to the bottom divider, which is screwed directly into the stock power supply. To fit an ATX one but keep the bottom divider, I cut a hole in both the divider and the casing of the original power supply. I then added an aluminum bracket which the PSU can be screwed to on one side using a thumb screw. The other side of the power supply is fixed down with a neodymium magnet I glued to the bottom of the stock PSU.
If you happen to have to glue a strong magnet, remember not to used JB Weld, as it has steel in it. The glue is attracted to the magnet, so it flows around the magnet and tries to coat the outside of the magnet evenly. Kuffs Thanks for posting your progress, you and I are doing our projects pretty much along the same lines. I found your link to the simplified pinouts for the fans to be exceptionally helpful. I now have both running at 7W and it has some very cold air moving in and out.
I do however have an update for you if you should ever decide to change your PS design. I disassembled my ATX PSU and successfully fit it into the mac PSU housing using the mac cooling fan instead of the large ATX fan. Here is a link to images on Flickr if you care to see: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kuffsinnc/sets/8735392/.
Hi, I've just got my G5 hack running. The only thing I haven't done yet is the front panel and was looking for your advice.
If I just plug the power button socket on my mATX board into pin 13 it doesn't power up. It's like this with two front panels. I've read somewhere that the firewire needs to be hooked up for this all to work. Did you use firewire on your motherboard? How did you bypass it?
I'm basically wondering if you could just give me a quick guide on the front panel connector cable. My twitter is @jdrobinson if that makes it easier to inform me. Thank You Ben for your thread. A friend gave me 2 fully functional G5s with one 23' Cinema Display.
I'm hacking one and sold the other to 'pay' for my hack. I linked to your guide in my sales post for people looking to buy the case and mod it (hope you don't mind) because your guide is one of the most detailed and best illustrated. I am successfully using JB Weld as others have, and I chose it because it has iron content in it, and I thought that might be a good thing when mounting the motherboard - although there are about 1000 threads out there arguing if you need the MB grounded or not. So I split the difference and 'kinda' grounded it with the JB Weld. One thing I wanted to share is that if anyone is not interested in wiring up the front USB/1384a/Audio themselves, there is someone who makes the cables for 30 Euros (includes shipping with tracking). You can find him in the forums at www.insanelymac.com. Hi there, I'm just now started on this build and it's going to take me about a 2 weeks to finish it.
I have a concern with my PSU not having enough power for all the fans once it's running. I'm going to be using all but one fan (the Blower fan near the HDD). I'm also buying a fan controller that hooks in to system fan slot on the MoBo. That way it can keep it quiet at idling and leaf blower when its crunching. Should i upgrade from Corsair CX 430 to a 500 or 600 watt unit to provide enough power.
Here is the fan controller: Hope to hear from someone or Ben. I just got a G5 case for $50 and pan to do this mod. I did not have a dremel but I have a drill and dremil attachment I think will work. I was trying to get the parts out last night and didnt have a torx bit that fit. I'll get it today.
I got a filly working G5 2GHZ with 4gb of ram without hard drive for only $50. So I will be removing the parts and reselling them. Hoping to get the money I put into this back. I am mounting a micro ATX board in this.
I dont think I will have to cut the divider at the top this way. I will have to see. How did you cut the back to fit the I/O area to fit so good.